RIME Seafood & Steak restaurant at the St. Regis Deer Valley recently launched a new summer menu and returning to RIME gave my wife and I a chance to taste some of the new dishes as well as meet Chef de Cuisine, Larry Abrams, who moved to Utah in December to work at RIME and has revamped the menu there. 

Foie Gras Amuse Bouche

As we perused the new RIME dinner menu, we were treated to a scrumptious amuse bouche of lighter than air foie gras mousse with a blackberry and chili crisp compote served on a ramen-type soup spoon – an excellent way to prepare the palate for the dinner that was to come. 

Tuna Poke Tostada Amuse Bouche

But before launching fully into dinner dishes, we were sent a second amuse. This one was also delicious: a pair of mini fried corn tortilla tostadas topped with raw sushi grade ahi tuna and pureed avocado. The tune poke amuse was perfect. 

Summer Melon Gazpacho

One of the new summer menu items at RIME is a wonderful warm weather gazpacho. Chef Abram’s Summer Melon Gazpacho ($18) is both gluten free and vegan – a refreshing, fruity chilled “soup” poured into bowls at the table with cucumber, melon, and coconut sorbet. I particularly loved the coconut flavor which imparted a tropical tone to the summer gazpacho. Other tempting starters on the RIME menu include Hot Buttered Crab Toast ($24), Roasted Beets with goat cheese and compressed watermelon ($18), and Roasted Bone Marrow with lemon, parsley and sourdough bread ($21). 

Pineapple Ginger Fizz Mocktail

It’s always good to see the talented and knowledgeable Mitchell Pain – St. Regis Deer Valley Sommelier – at RIME. He recommended a fun, summery mocktail for Faith called a Pineapple Ginger Fizz ($12), which pretty much sums up the ingredients: pineapple juice and Fever Tree ginger beer, served in a tall glass rimmed with Tajin – a unique blend of dried chili peppers, lime and sea salt and garnished with fresh mint leaves and a lime wedge. Muy bueno! 

Oysters on the Half Shell

RIME also has a “Raw & Cru” section of its menu with dishes such as Yellowfin Tuna Crudo ($27), Shrimp Cocktail ($23), Sliced Main Scallops ($25), and Prime Steak Tartare ($25). I can never resist RIME’s Oysters on the half shell, served with classic accompaniments such as seafood sauce and mignonette ($28/6 or $52/12). 

Utah Elk Carpaccio

One of the more impressive dishes on the new RIME menu is Chef Abram’s stunning Utah Elk Carpaccio ($28). The paper thin slices of elk are served with crunchy fried capers, snap peas, smoked parmesan, grain mustard, red onion, microgreens, and homemade sourdough croutons. It’s a very generous serving and absolutely delicious. 

Chef de Cuisine Larry Abrams

Chef de Cuisine Larry Abrams has impressive kitchen credentials which include stints in Europe at Michelin-starred restaurants and working with luminaries such as Juan Mari Arzak, Michel Guérard and Georges Blanc. He’s a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. Here in the U.S. he’s been Sous Chef at Commander’s Palace in New Orleans and more recently served as Sous Chef at Michelin-starred Valle in Oceanside, California under renowned Executive Chef Roberto Alcocer. Chatting with Larry at RIME I discovered that we have a (late) dear friend in common in Anthony Bourdain. In fact, Abrams worked in the kitchen at Bourdain’s renown Les Halles restaurant in NYC – a spot I used to frequent at least a couple times a month when I lived there. Abrams is nothing if not passionate about cooking and he’s particularly enthusiastic about working with local Utah farmers, artisans and producers to source as many local ingredients for his dishes as possible. 

Pan-Seared Maine Scallops

Another sensational dish during our RIME dinner was a quartet of perfectly seared Maine Scallops ($50) served with a luscious sugar snap pea puree with lemon, olive oil and mushrooms. Obviously, the scallops weren’t sourced locally but they certainly are fresh; they are in the water one day before they’re harvested and delivered to the St. Regis. I’ve never encountered a better scallop dish than this one. Other seafood entrees include Sitka Bay Halibut ($52) with panko lime crust, tomato juice, Swiss chard and chili oil; and Roasted Campbell River Salmon with corn velouté, piquillo peppers, lime and cilantro ($48). There’s also a 6 oz. Salmon Steak ($42) from Campbell River, British Columbia on the menu and 6 oz. Ahi Tuna ($46) from Honolulu.  

Willamette Valley Lamb Chops

Meat features prominently on the RIME menu and includes a 22 oz. Niman Ranch Iberico Pork T-Bone ($64), 16 oz. Niman Ranch Prime New York Strip ($88), and 22 oz. Niman Ranch Bone-In Ribeye ($96). I opted for the Willamette Valley Lamb Chops ($58) – a trio of gorgeous medium-rare chops served with a brilliant side of pine nuts prepared risotto-style, herb puree, and a tasty smoked chili glaze. 

To be honest, I think the cuisine at RIME is better right now than it has ever been. Chef Larry Abrams is knocking it out of the park. I hope he continues to do so. A few days after we dined at RIME I learned that Executive Chef Matthew Fradera “will oversee all Culinary Operations at the St. Regis, including those at RIME. Chef Fradera was most recently Executive Chef for Waldorf Astoria Park City for nearly two years where he helped to plan the hotel’s new kitchen and restaurant and was responsible for all resort culinary operations.  Prior to that, Fradera served as Executive Sous Chef for Pendry Park City where he developed and implemented menus for five dining venues during the hotel’s opening and trained all culinary colleagues. In addition, Fradera will oversee all banquets and events, as well as supervise a superb staff of more than 50 cooks and stewards, working in concert with the Resort’s Chef Matthew Harris to interpret and execute the menus.”

“What an honor to join the extraordinarily accomplished and creative culinary team at The St. Regis Deer Valley,” said Chef Fradera. “All menus will highlight the best quality and freshest seafood, meats and game from around the country as well as sourcing from local businesses and farmers. Our priority is that of culinary excellence, innovation, superb sourcing and impeccable service.”  

I’m keeping my fingers crossed that Chef Abrams will still be able to innovate and create in the RIME kitchen; he’s an uber-talented dude. 

Photos by Ted Scheffler

Culinary quote of the week: “I can’t cook. I use a smoke alarm as a timer.” – Carol Siskind 

Feature Image: Foie Gras Amuse Bouche.