Monastrell is a thick-skinned red wine grape variety that usually produces smoky, deep, complex red wines. Known as Mourvedre in France, Monastrell is abundant in Central Spain. Much of the Monastrell comes from the wine regions of Jumilla, Bullas and Yecla. I recently enjoyed a very moderately priced Monastrell from Jumilla: Bodegas Olivares Altos de la Hoya Monastrell 2020 ($13.75).
The wine grapes come from the Olivares’ family vineyard, which is called Finca Hoya de Santa Ana, and has very sandy soil and a high percentage of chalk. The vines are quite old, with the oldest ones having been planted in 1872.
In addition to Monastrell, Olivares Altos de la Hoya Monastrell 2020 is made with 10 percent Garnacha in the blend, the grapes of which are grown on ungrafted old vines. Jumilla has some of the oldest vines in Spain as well as the largest number of ungrafted vines, which are said to create wines that are more intense and flavorful than wines made with grapes from grafted vines. Monastrell is often said to be “gamey” and it is a great partner for grilled, roasted and smoked game meats.
Olivares Altos de la Hoya Monastrell 2020 was aged in French oak in a combination of foudres and barricas, mostly from Burgundy, and weighs in at 14.5% ABV. It is certainly an intense wine, with blueberry, prune, licorice, and cassis aromas. On the tongue, the wine is full-bodied with blackberry and raisin notes, some spiciness, plenty of acidity, moderate tannins, and a long and complex finish. It’s a big, bold wine for under 14 bucks.
