Food & Drink

Best Wine of 2023

A champagne from France described as full-bodied with floral notes and a reasonable price is the pick for top wine of 2023.

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I’ve been fortunate this year, as most years, to be able to sample wonderful wines from around the world. I’ve tasted everything from $5 bottles in Portugal, to wines that sell for hundreds of dollars per bottle, including some highlights from Daou Family Estates such as the wonderful Soul of a Lion. 

However, the single wine that left the biggest, mostly lasting impression on me – especially for the price – was Roger Coulon Heri-Hodie 1er Cru Brut Champagne ($60.94). My wife and I were introduced to this fantastic grower Champagne from France by our friend and colleague, Francis Fecteau, proprietor of Libation Inc. and we’re eternally grateful since it has become the go-to Champagne at Chez Scheffler. 

The Coulon family is part of the old guard of grower Champagne producers from Vrigny and the surrounding villages in the northwest corner of the Montagne de Reims, and has been making bubbly for eight generations. The average age of the Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines which produce Roger Coulon Champagne are 38 years, which is fairly rare in the Champagne region where “old vines” are often seen as unwanted. Coulon is one of only six growers in the prestigious élite Trait d’Union – an association committed to expressing terroir and working as naturally as possible. The Roger Coulon vineyards were certified organic in 2019.

Coulon’s Heri-Hodie is aged for three years before being disgorged, a somewhat unusual blend of 90% Pinot Meunier and 10% Chardonnay. The Champagne is full-bodied, concentrated and elegant, with fresh floral notes and flavors of yellow apples, apricots, and marzipan with bright acidity. If you’re in the hunt for a wonderful French Champagne to help celebrate New Year’s Eve – or for any celebration – be sure to keep in mind Roger Coulon Heri-Hodie 1er Cru Brut Champagne. 

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