Beer Stories

A History of Beer in Utah

Utah was once the beer capital of the Western United States. Utah and its rich history of the beer industry providing jobs, education and quality products dates back to the 1880s.

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by Richard Markosian

Utah was once the beer capital of the Western United States.  Utah and its rich history of the beer industry providing jobs, education and quality products dates back to the 1880s.

Utah’s Rich History in Beer

How Beer Saved Utah
How Beer Saved Utah

Part II in a two part series on How Beer Saved Utah.

“Very few people realize that Utah was once home to some of biggest and best breweries in the Western United States,” says Del Vance, author of  Beer in the Beehive. Prior to prohibition, Utah was home to three major Breweries. Becker, Fisher Brewing and Salt Lake Brewing Company were all world-class operations, satisfying the unquenchable thirst of the many miners working in the western United States. Miners burned an estimated 4,000 calories per day, and beer was their liquid nourishment. Utah was once home to 15 breweries of various size and character. For the scope of this article we focus on two of the largest: Becker Brewing and the Salt Lake Brewing Company.

Salt Lake Brewing Company

The Salt Lake Brewing Company

In 1891 the Salt Lake Brewing Company was one of the largest breweries outside of Milwaukee, Wisconsin. According to the Salt Lake Tribune SLBC  reach an annual capacity of 100,000 barrels of beer per year. To put this enormous quantity into perspective, today, Uinta Brewing Company and the Utah Brewers Cooperative (Squatters and Wasatch) together produce close to 30,000 barrels of beer annually. That’s 3.5 times as much as any brewery in Utah today, a  remarkable feat given that this single Utah brewery was operating before the turn of the 19th Century in a city that was settled by pioneers just 50 years earlier.

The Salt Lake Brewing Company dominated the eastern skyline in the late 1800s. Composed of several massive buildings, the operation was a technological manufacturing marvel for at the time.  Jacob Moritz was to beer as Bill Gates is to computers.

He worked for control over every aspect of the business. With ownership of not only his massive brewery, from which he distributed beer in five states, Moritz also owned 36 saloons in Utah that all sold his beer exclusively, American Beauty, and Budweiser Beer. Back then Budweiser was considered by most to be a style of beer. But Busch contended they owned the exclusive rights to the name. Moritz as a titan in the industry, challenged Anheiser-Busch, but eventually lost.

In the early 1900s state officials began attempts to break up Moritz’ monopoly by “ridding the city of crime-breeding dives.” The city enacted an endless procession of laws leading up to Prohibition. By 1906 he was brewing just 50,000 barrels, never reaching the full capacity of his plant. But as the Salt Lake Brewing Company was shrinking the second largest Utah Brewery was expanding in Ogden.

The Becker Brewing Company

In 1908 the Becker brothers had convinced the heavy beer drinkers and the mining community in Ogden to switch from drinking the Eastern beers and “support local industry” by drinking the superior Becker beer. Stating in an ad campaign, “more doctors prescribe their patients Becker beer than any other beer.” Apparently it was preferred by doctors before the age of anti-depressants.

Becker Brewing Company

Previous local beers were far inferior to the imported beers, but Becker Beer was made using the traditional Bavarian Pilsner methods. The Beckers were well educated in beer production and incorporated the methods from their mother country of Germany. Using superior ingredients, with quality controls for every ingredient and every step in the process, the Becker’s were meticulous in ensuring that every bottle of beer was perfect. By the time of their massive expansion in 1908 they won over the locals not just in Ogden but all over Utah and the Intermountain West.

Becker Beer’s factory included their own malting facility. A highly complicated process to do well, the malting process entails germinating barley grain (converting starches to sugar) then roasting the grains to the proper amount depending on the desired color of the beer.

The Becker Brewing Company bought all of their barley from local farmers, “using the finest barley grown anywhere in the U.S.” They also bought their hops locally. Becker’s factory included their own water works and  power plant that used a massive amount of coal to produce the electricity required to keep their icehouse and fermentation cellars the proper temperature.

While Becker operated “off the grid,” with little reliance on the city of Ogden for utilities, their economic impact on Ogden was significant, always using locally grown ingredients and local craftsman in all of their expansions.

“A city 3 or 4 times the size of Ogden would be pleased to have such a brewery.” Becker eventually installed their own rail line to easily distribute beer to Idaho, Wyoming, Nevada and Montana. By 1908 they were producing 35,000 barrels of beer annually.

Becker Golden Pilsner

Becker survived Prohibition. Even after attempts to produce candy out of their factory, the Salt Lake Brewing Company didn’t survive. Becker operated throughout prohibition by producing non-alcoholic beer called Becco, and it also bottled Coca-Cola products, made ice, and began a poultry-freezing business. When Prohibition lifted in 1933, Becker was the only operational brewery left in Utah. The vacuum left by prohibition was eventually filled by national macro-breweries.

How Beer Died in Utah

Vance, explains, “As the Interstate Highway system became more popular, it provided inroads into smaller communities. And the larger breweries like Anheuser Busch and Coors were able to make inroads into what used to be provided for by the local breweries. By undercutting their pricing they basically killed the local brewery…By the mid seventies, there were only about a dozen breweries left in the country.” Vance continues, “A lot of the fault I would blame on the breweries themselves. They all wanted to produce what I call, ‘yellow-fuzzy-wuss-beer.’ “

Utah’s New Beer Pioneers

This all changed in Utah when Greg Schirf decided to open Utah’s first brewery in nearly 20 years, The Schirf Brewing Company, brewing Wasatch Beer. Del Vance, was in a fraternity at the University of Utah at the time and said after he bought a keg (back in the good old days when kegs were legal) from Wasatch, he was unsure of how his fellow frat brothers would react to the new style of beer, but, “They thought it was was awesome…That’s when I realized, ‘there is something to this beer thing.’”  Vance entered the craft brew market co-founding Uinta Brewing in 1993.

Greg Schirf of Schirf Brewing Company and Wasatch Beer

Greg Schirf was responsible for getting the Utah liquor law changed which allowed small breweries to sell their own products. The microbrewery was born in Utah. And Schirf opened the first in Park City in 1986.

When Squatters brew pub opened in downtown Salt Lake City in 1989, downtown was suffering the worst downturn of urban blight since the beginning of the decline of downtown in the early 1970s.

 

 

 

Peter Cole
Peter Cole and Jennifer Talley of Squatters

With drug abuse, prostitution and crime setting in; and tax revenue in decline to fight crime, more businesses moved out from the city center to the suburbs. Most of the city center of Salt Lake had become seedy and unsafe. The Salt Lake City RDA was willing to help anyone who wanted to invest in downtown.

Peter Cole and Jeff Polychronis were two young real estate professionals who had the crazy notion to open a brewpub in what was considered, “the red light district” of Salt Lake. “At that time anything west of West Temple was considered unsafe…we saw a lot of colorful interesting events during the time when we started construction.”

They choose to rent a boarded up old pink building that had been vacated for the past six years. By anyone’s evaluation it was an extremely risky move to assume the area would be revitalized any time soon.

Cole says, “At the time the city was putting a tremendous amount of effort into revitalization.. The RDA was working on the Shariton Hotel and American Towers…We were just West of what was going on.”

Cole says that despite their sketchy location, they had a great deal of confidence in their concept. Cole and Poychronis spent nearly a year touring brew pubs across the U.S. and believed that a brewpub incorporating the best of what they found would be a winner, even in Salt Lake. When Squatters opened in downtown Salt Lake it was an immediate hit.

Prohibition hit Utah’s economy and its well established breweries very hard. The Salt Lake Brewing Company, Becker Brewing and the Wagner Brewing Company would never reopen after beer was outlawed in the United States .

“To say that we were gratified would be a massive understatement. People were absolutely thrilled to get a fresh handcrafted beer in Salt Lake City.”

Today the area around Squatters is probably the greatest success story of urban revitalization without government or church intervention in the last 20 years.

Beer = Peace and Love

Two years after Squatters, Red Rock Brewing Company opened a block and a half away on 254 South 200 West. Squatters could have been offended or a turf battle could have ensued. But rather than see each other as fierce competitors the two head brewers Kevin Templin of Red Rock and Jennifer Talley of Squatters are good friends.

Talley says, “I couldn’t have a better brewing neighbor than Kevin. Likewise Templin said that when Jenny won her gold medal for Fifth Element, he was very happy for her. Utah Brewers regularly get together. They enjoy each others company and critique each others new recipes. They hang out together at brew festivals and to see their eyes light up when they talk about each other, one might assume they are talking about their family.

In the past 10 years the areas in downtown around Squatters and Wasatch has been thriving. Also, since Wasatch opened in Park City, Main Street has become one of  hottest pieces of real estate in Utah.
Nobody would have imagined that a former “red light district” would end up one of the coolest places in Salt Lake City. By the early 1990s crime shifted either further West or moved out all together. The Rose Wagner Theater opened up across the street from Squatters in 2001. And the area around Red Rock has attracted investment from Setebello Pizza the Gastronomy Group.

Today Red Rock, Squatters, Bohemian, Uinta, Hoppers, Wasatch, Moab Brewery, Eddie McStiffs, Desert Edge and Roosters all have contributed greatly to the local economies and populations they serve. It’s impossible to imagine a world without the great benefits we all enjoy thanks to Utah beer. Besides the economic and community benefits, the tax revenue produced from alcohol sales through the DABC pays for a huge chunk of the funding for public schools.

Microbreweries have saved Utah from the potential social pitfalls of uneducated youth, pill-popping, stressed out adults and rampant drug abuse. We can thank beer for saving Utah, for beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy. -Benjamin Franklin

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  • Utah Homelessness Crisis: Tyler Clancy Challenges ‘Housing First’ Failures

    “It’s not normal to see someone sleeping on the sidewalk in a sleeping bag with a needle sticking out of their arm.”

    That sentence should not be controversial. In a sane society, it would barely need saying. But in Utah — where politicians, nonprofits, consultants, and bureaucrats have spent more than a decade congratulating themselves for “addressing homelessness” while the streets of Salt Lake have become more dangerous, more drug-soaked, and more morally disorienting — it lands like an indictment. And it came not from a crank, a talk-radio host, or a downtown business owner at the end of his rope, but from Tyler Clancy, Utah’s newly appointed homeless coordinator.

    That matters because if Clancy is serious — and after sitting down with him, he appears to be — then he represents something Utah’s homelessness system has not had in a very long time: someone willing to say the obvious out loud. The old script is dead. Everybody knows it, but almost nobody in power has wanted to admit it. 

    For years, Utah’s homelessness policy has been built on a polite fiction — that if we build enough units, distribute enough funding, and avoid being too “judgmental,” the crisis will gradually resolve itself. That story was easier to maintain when Utah was receiving national praise for “solving chronic homelessness.” It is much harder to sustain now, when the conditions on the ground tell a very different story.

    Magnolia Apartments opened to help alleviate homelessness, but the results were not all positive.

    Part of that failure became painfully clear over the last four years. By most accounts, former homelessness coordinator Wayne Niederhauser was a decent man and a very nice guy. But one person close to him described his tenure as that of “a tiger without stripes”— someone with the title, but not the appetite to challenge the sprawling network of nonprofits and service providers receiving millions in taxpayer dollars. That lack of accountability has had real consequences. Multiple former and current residents have told Utah Stories that of the roughly 60 original tenants who moved into Magnolia when it opened, about 20 have since died — most, they say, from accidental drug overdoses. 

    If those accounts are even close to accurate, they should have triggered a public reckoning. Instead, the system kept moving, protected by good intentions, insulated from scrutiny, and largely unbothered by outcomes that would be considered a scandal in almost any other context.

    That is the machine Clancy is stepping into, and unless he is willing to confront it directly — not just coordinate around it — his role risks becoming one more layer of management over the same failures. The reality he inherits is not complicated in the way policymakers like to suggest. It is visible, immediate, and increasingly impossible to explain away. 

    Open drug use, fentanyl addiction, untreated mental illness, rising disorder, and a growing sense among both the public and the homeless themselves all indicate that the system is not working. Complexity exists, but it has also become a convenient shield for cowardice. It is the language people use when they want to avoid saying what is plainly in front of them: Utah has spent years managing visible human collapse while calling it compassion.

    The Lie Utah Told Itself

    For years, Utah’s approach to homelessness rested on a narrative few in power were willing to question. It sounded compassionate. It polled well. And it avoided uncomfortable truths.

    Continue reading with a Utah Stories subscription. Start your 3-month free trial.

    Continue reading and support independent Utah journalism with a purchase of Utah Stories (Digital + Print) or 3 month free trial (Digital).


  • Inside Moab’s Political Divide: Land, Tourism, and the Future of Grand County, Utah

    In the late 1950s, Edward Abbey took a job as a park ranger at Arches National Monument, just outside Moab. What he found there, and what he watched happen to it, would shape the rest of his life. Roads were being cut into the canyon country. Cars were replacing foot traffic. The National Park Service, in the name of accessibility, was engineering a kind of industrialization of the wilderness he’d come to love. Abbey wrote about it in Desert Solitaire, published in 1968, and the anger in that book wasn’t abstract. It came from watching something specific be changed by people who either didn’t understand what they had or didn’t care.

    Grand County has long been the most reliably left-leaning county in the state, a fact that puts it in sharp contrast to nearly everything around it. To understand how that happened, and where things stand now, I spoke with longtime residents and politicians who’ve watched it from the inside, people who’ve served in local government and lived through the shifts firsthand.

    Robert Greenberg.

    Bob Greenberg came from New York in 1976, took a job at the community mental health center, and never left. He went on to chair the Grand County Democratic Party and serve on the county council. When he arrived, he said, “the Democratic Party was said to be able to meet in a phone booth” — and even then, its members were a contradictory bunch. Yellow Dog Democrats from the oil patch were fiscally conservative but surprisingly open socially, allowing different demographics to feel safe moving to the county. 

    “The town fathers were desperate to have new people come to town,” Greenberg recalls. “They just didn’t want the people who actually showed up. They wanted some other people.”

    What followed was a demographic shift nobody planned. The people who filled the gap left by the bust were river guides, federal agency workers, artists, and eventually waves of outdoor recreationists discovering that southeastern Utah was among the most spectacular landscapes on earth. Tourism ended up being the only economic development avenue that actually worked. Manufacturing never had the labor force or market access, sewing factories came and went. The people the tourist economy attracted tended to be younger, more outdoor-oriented, and more liberal.

    Kevin Walker.

    Kevin Walker, a former Grand County commissioner who moved here in 1990 for the landscape, puts the county’s diversity in context. “Moab [is] a pretty diverse place since, I think, at least the 1950s with the uranium mining boom,” he says. “So it’s not a typical Southern Utah town.” 

    Part of what makes Grand County distinct is self-reinforcing. Federal agencies like the Park Service, the Forest Service, the BLM, have large presences here and pull in a different demographic than surrounding counties. People looking to live in Southern Utah with certain values gravitate toward the place where those values already have a foothold. Over time, that critical mass has made Grand County what it is politically, while neighboring counties went in very different directions.

    The defining conflict in Grand County has always been over land.

    In the 1970s and 80s, it was extraction versus preservation in the starkest terms. County commissioners floated toxic waste incinerators. A plan emerged to site a high-level nuclear waste repository at the entrance to Canyonlands National Park. 

    “It really, really galvanized environmentalists everywhere, but particularly in Grand County,” Greenberg says. Activists put up signs at the park entrance, watched them get chainsawed down, and came back with steel reinforcement. That stubborn, physical, unglamorous persistence became part of the local political character.

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  • The Stratos Project and Corporate Power: Who Controls Utah’s Future?

    If we were all just consumers, Governor Cox, Mike Lee, Speaker Schultz, and Kevin O’Leary would have it easy. If we were just more concerned about money, jobs, and tech, and less concerned about raising our kids in communities (not in front of screens), culture, the environment, and water, those smart dudes would get exactly what they want — Stratos: a city of the future, buzzing with processors and transistors, making all of our AI dreams come true! 

    The world we could live in would be a dazzling, Mr. Wonderful kind of place. We would beat those pesky Chinese in the AI war; our AI robots could do all of our farming and ostensibly harvest the water we need for the Great Salt Lake out of thin air. But apparently, we just don’t get it. We haven’t yet reached the point predicted by Aldous Huxley’s vision in Brave New World, where we are completely distracted, dopamine-driven consumers who only need sex, drugs, and stuff to remain happy.

    Maybe Stratos will be an amazing marvel, and somehow, as Governor Cox claims, “. . . add more water to the Great Salt Lake.” But we aren’t sold. While this Stratos project has received considerable attention, it’s worth taking a step back to attempt to understand how corporate power appears to have usurped civic power.

    Civics is the practice of shaping our society through our collective voices and community involvement. Ask the residents in Tremonton, Utah how well that is working out for them. Can we still shape our world through our elected leaders? Does it matter who we vote for at the ballot box if organizations like UDOT, UTA, and MIDA can supersede our local government authority and citizen backlash? 

    The corporatization of our communities and the interests that impact our political leaders’ decision making processes are seen as far more of a concern than the average Utah resident’s concerns. Special interests and corporate power are shaping Utah’s future more than ever. 

    It’s worth asking: ‘How can we regain control over shaping Utah’s future in light of the growing power and billions that the technocrats now wield in shaping our world today?’ Amazon’s market cap exceeds the GDP of Canada. The “Magnificent Seven” tech stocks now have a greater market cap than the entire GDP of Europe ($23.6 trillion. EU countries have $19.3 trillion GDP). Will tech companies become their own nation-states and dominate their own chunks of various states? Will we become their subjects?

    There are two sides to this coin: We love Utah not just because we have the most outdoor wilderness playgrounds, but also because of Utah’s prosperity and job market. This is because Utah has become a tech hub. Our tech leadership has minted several billionaires and billion-dollar businesses. Utah offers a market and an educated workforce that more businesses and giant corporations want to be a part of. This is a benefit for even non-tech Utahns.

    The problem with this success is that as we dole out more money to attract more tech businesses, data centers, fulfillment centers, and big corporate retailers, it becomes more difficult to carve out our “sense of community.” As corporate sovereignty replaces local business sovereignty, we see that our voices and our votes matter less.

    Ask who our politicians work for, and nearly every Utahn believes they work far more for their corporate donors than they work for the average Utah citizen. So how do we best regain control over our communities?

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