Fun Guide

Flying for the First Time over Some of the Most Spectacular Scenery on Earth, Moab Utah

While Moab is quickly becoming an internationally-known destination for the wealthy and elite, families don’t need to break the bank to afford flying over some of the most spectacular scenery on earth

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A view from above of Arches National Park. Photos by Richard Markosian.

The sensation of taking off in a single-engine Cessna with our two kids ages four and six and watching their eyes become saucers while their jaws drop, naturally causes a parent to wonder: “Will they love this or hate it? Will they relax and have fun or will they remember this as agonizing child abuse?” I have no idea. 

It only takes a few minutes until the grip of fear subsides and hints of smiles appear on their faces. They don’t talk it’s probably a little too much to process but at least they aren’t crying!

The Colorado River seen from the air.

This is their first time flying on any airplane, and experiencing flight for the first time through their eyes reminds me of when I did the same thing at about their ages in much the same way. 

Small airplanes offer the sensation of flight in a little bit scarier way than big commercial airplanes, but flying on a small plane while witnessing the pilot in action in the tiny cockpit makes the event so much more significant and personal. It’s like riding on a kayak compared to riding on a cruise liner. We feel the turbulence more profoundly; we hit pockets of big ups and big downs, but this is flight! 

Out pilot, James, from Redtail Aviation.

We hear through our headphones from our pilot, James, that we are going to head over to Arches. As the roads, cars and buildings become tiny, the view of the vast landscape makes the little outpost of Moab, followed by Castle Valley, appear insignificant. The millions of acres of uninhabited “badlands” below us, with the little channel of the Colorado River carving its way through, is spectacular.

Delicate Arch.

James has been flying with Redtail Aviation for six years in a single-engine Cessna over Moab, Canyonlands and Arches National Parks. He’s still enthusiastic about the landscape, including petrified sand dunes, hundreds of arches, the massive red rock fins of Fiery Furnace, and the views of Delicate Arch and Landscape Arch from 5,000 feet above. 

Moab’s once-remote airport was expanded a few years ago to allow for larger private jets and charter planes. It’s getting busier these days, and there are even a few private jets parked on the tarmac. “We are getting more folks with jets flying in on weekends,” James tells us.

While Moab is quickly becoming an internationally-known destination for the wealthy and elite, families don’t need to break the bank to afford flying over some of the most spectacular scenery on earth. And the sensation of flying over billions of years of geology, especially while creating a sense of awe and wonder in kids, is certainly a worthwhile 45-minute trip.

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  • Inside Moab’s Political Divide: Land, Tourism, and the Future of Grand County, Utah

    In the late 1950s, Edward Abbey took a job as a park ranger at Arches National Monument, just outside Moab. What he found there, and what he watched happen to it, would shape the rest of his life. Roads were being cut into the canyon country. Cars were replacing foot traffic. The National Park Service, in the name of accessibility, was engineering a kind of industrialization of the wilderness he’d come to love. Abbey wrote about it in Desert Solitaire, published in 1968, and the anger in that book wasn’t abstract. It came from watching something specific be changed by people who either didn’t understand what they had or didn’t care.

    Grand County has long been the most reliably left-leaning county in the state, a fact that puts it in sharp contrast to nearly everything around it. To understand how that happened, and where things stand now, I spoke with longtime residents and politicians who’ve watched it from the inside, people who’ve served in local government and lived through the shifts firsthand.

    Robert Greenberg.

    Bob Greenberg came from New York in 1976, took a job at the community mental health center, and never left. He went on to chair the Grand County Democratic Party and serve on the county council. When he arrived, he said, “the Democratic Party was said to be able to meet in a phone booth” — and even then, its members were a contradictory bunch. Yellow Dog Democrats from the oil patch were fiscally conservative but surprisingly open socially, allowing different demographics to feel safe moving to the county. 

    “The town fathers were desperate to have new people come to town,” Greenberg recalls. “They just didn’t want the people who actually showed up. They wanted some other people.”

    What followed was a demographic shift nobody planned. The people who filled the gap left by the bust were river guides, federal agency workers, artists, and eventually waves of outdoor recreationists discovering that southeastern Utah was among the most spectacular landscapes on earth. Tourism ended up being the only economic development avenue that actually worked. Manufacturing never had the labor force or market access, sewing factories came and went. The people the tourist economy attracted tended to be younger, more outdoor-oriented, and more liberal.

    Kevin Walker.

    Kevin Walker, a former Grand County commissioner who moved here in 1990 for the landscape, puts the county’s diversity in context. “Moab [is] a pretty diverse place since, I think, at least the 1950s with the uranium mining boom,” he says. “So it’s not a typical Southern Utah town.” 

    Part of what makes Grand County distinct is self-reinforcing. Federal agencies like the Park Service, the Forest Service, the BLM, have large presences here and pull in a different demographic than surrounding counties. People looking to live in Southern Utah with certain values gravitate toward the place where those values already have a foothold. Over time, that critical mass has made Grand County what it is politically, while neighboring counties went in very different directions.

    The defining conflict in Grand County has always been over land.

    In the 1970s and 80s, it was extraction versus preservation in the starkest terms. County commissioners floated toxic waste incinerators. A plan emerged to site a high-level nuclear waste repository at the entrance to Canyonlands National Park. 

    “It really, really galvanized environmentalists everywhere, but particularly in Grand County,” Greenberg says. Activists put up signs at the park entrance, watched them get chainsawed down, and came back with steel reinforcement. That stubborn, physical, unglamorous persistence became part of the local political character.

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