There is nothing quite like the juicy satisfaction of biting into a fresh piece of locally grown produce. Our local farms provide us with nutritious food and beautiful green spaces, but as our cities continue to grow, these cherished community staples face serious threats.

The story of the Cook Family Farm and Greenhouse in Vineyard perfectly highlights this struggle. Now in their fourth generation on the same soil, the Cook family represents a rare and wonderful piece of Utah’s farming heritage.

The Heavy Pressures of Modernization

Running a farm is hard enough, but rapid city growth makes it even tougher. More than a decade ago, the late Verl Cook faced a series of staggering hurdles that threatened to wipe out his family’s livelihood.

First, the city decided to treat the Cook’s greenhouse — the most profitable part of the farm — like a big-box retail store. They demanded the family build a paved parking lot, a project that would cost $200,000.

At the same time, the Utah Department of Transportation stepped in with plans to use eminent domain. They needed to carve out a chunk of the Cook farm to widen the I-15 freeway and build a new off-ramp.

Why the Greenbelt Statute Matters

Business remains vibrant at the Cook Greenhouse today, now run by M. Ryan Cook, one of Verl’s eight children. This is due in large part to a critical piece of state legislation. The farm survives because of the Utah Greenbelt statute, officially known as the Farmland Assessment Act.

This law allows agricultural land to be taxed based on its farming value rather than its potential market value as developable real estate. Without this significant reduction in property taxes, the Cook family simply could not afford to keep the farm running.

“We have decided to cut back some this year; it is really difficult to make a living unless you have a lot of land and a lot of big equipment,” Cook said. “Especially this year with the drought.”

There is a glaring divide between how residents view open space and how local governments calculate property values. Cook says they now have 70 acres, with the nursery taking up 20 acres. They also have a small orchard in Provo, but this year they lost most of the fruit crop due to a late frost.

The problem with neighbors

“Farming is just getting harder. I had three people call the police on me because I was spraying. I don’t know if my dad ever had that problem,” Cook said. “They were complaining it was too noisy. The orchard has been there longer than all the neighbors. They come around and expect you to change everything, even though you were there first.”

Faced with complaints and clashes with neighbors, many farmers eventually grow weary of the ongoing tensions. For some, the burden of balancing their livelihoods with the demands of nearby residents becomes too much to bear. Over time, this frustration leads some farmers to make the difficult decision to sell their land and move elsewhere, leaving behind generations of hard work and heritage in search of a more peaceful way to continue their trade.

Bridging the Divide

The pressure on farmers who want to hold onto their land is immense. As community members, we must ask ourselves what kind of neighborhoods we want to live in. Do we want wall-to-wall concrete, or do we want to preserve the local agriculture that feeds and enriches us?

“Everyone needs to figure out a way to keep the green space and respect the local farmers,” Cook said. “The neighbors near the orchard are always asking when we are going to sell out. I can see the Cook Farm getting smaller and smaller.”  

Cook has eight children of his own; none of them are currently interested in farming. The next generation sees how hard the work is and what they earn, and realizes they can make more money and have more free time by doing something else. For the past decade, Cook and his kids have sold thousands of pumpkins in front of their house, which they plan to continue. The first year the kids made enough money to buy their mom a leather sectional. The neighbors look forward to the sprawling pumpkin landscape each year. 

“Growing and selling the pumpkins is the part I really like, I can see people are grateful for it,” Cook shared. “You have to be tied to a farm; it is like a baby you can’t leave, especially during the growing season. I just can’t see the younger generation doing this. Most of the kids are selling the land and investing the money into something else.”

It is time to support our local growers. Make a point of visiting neighborhood greenhouses, shopping at farmers markets, getting your pumpkins at a farm and talking to your local representatives about the importance of preserving these vital growers.

Feature Image: M. Ryan Cook works in the Greenhouse. He took over the business from his dad, Verl Cook. Photos by John Taylor.