It’s hard to believe that it’s already been five years since I first reviewed Arlo restaurant, in September of 2020. The space that was formerly Em’s had been completely renovated by chef/owner Milo Carrier and his team, including creating one of the most appealing patios in SLC, which at the time was perfectly geared for social distancing (anybody remember that?).
Well, that perfect patio is just as appealing today – without social distancing – as it was when Arlo opened. And so is the ever-changing menu, which emphasizes seasonally appropriate ingredients and dishes. I didn’t realize until recently that chef Carrier – who is a Salt Lake City native – worked as sous chef at one of my favorite San Francisco restaurants: Boulevard, a Michelin starred eatery and James Beard Award winner. He was probably in the kitchen when I last ate there, prior to opening Arlo. Small world.
Bread and Butter
It’s a no-brainer to kick off a meal with their homemade Bread and Butter ($5), self-described on the Arlo menu as “ daily bread and quite possibly the world’s finest French butter.” The bread is spiraled, cinnamon roll-style, and yes, served with very, very good butter, if not the “world’s finest.” The bread and butter comes served in custom made ceramic dishes designed specifically for Arlo by team member Matt Vollmer. You can check out his fine work at heroceramicsslc.com. On Arlo’s Instagram they say, “If you find yourself in love with Matt’s beautiful work as well, please consider supporting his shop before you pocket our dishes! These little trays have an unfortunate habit of walking off on us.”
Fish and Chips
Other appetizer-style dishes include a simple plate of Pickles ($6), and Cheese and Cracker ($7) with triple cream brie, preserved apricot mustard, and seeded rye flatbread cracker. Our party really enjoyed sharing a generously portioned order of Fish and Chips ($9), which is nothing like any fish and chips you’ve had before. This version is house-smoked trout on fresh, homemade potato chips with yellow mustard seed, capers, celery, dill, and caraway creme fraiche. It is a must-try Arlo menu item.
Ravioli
The Ravioli dish ($29) on the current menu isn’t exactly ravioli-shaped, but sort of a wonton/tortelloni mashup. Whatever you want to call it, it’s delicious: Fresh pasta stuffed with roasted red beet, goat cheese and lemon, with snipped chives, shaved parm, celery leaf, and more. There’s also a not-so-traditional Risotto ($28) on the Arlo menu made with toasted brown rice, peas, red wine agrodolce and sunchokes.
Beet Salad
A member of our party is vegan and she indulged in Arlo’s Beet Salad ($16), which is a prodigious amount of beets with gem lettuce, winter citrus and pistachio, ginger and honey vinaigrette, and preserved lime yogurt – a fascinating dish, indeed. There is also a Chicory Salad ($16) on the menu with sherry maple vinaigrette, sunflower hummus, citrus and aged goat cheese.
Fish
While we very much enjoyed our Arlo dinner overall, and table superb service from Harrison, I was disappointed in my entree. Simply called “Fish” on the menu, this was a bowl with striped bass (a wafer thin portion that was about 3 inches by 3 inches in size) accompanied by four or five mussels, white beans, caramelized cauliflower, and sauce picada in what the menu describes as “a really fine broth.” The dish was very tasty, but pretty skimpy for the $35 cost.
Chicken
A better value – although also pricey – is cornmeal crusted Chicken ($34) with caramelized cauliflower, broccolini, Carolina rice grits, and “a nice sauce” according to the menu. I know that the folks at Arlo are attempting to be lighthearted, not fussy, but calling a sauce “nice” tells me exactly nothing. The nice sauce appeared to me to be a simple natural jus.
Nearly five years in, Arlo is as appealing as ever. There are many more hits than misses, a very eclectic beer and wine list, outstanding service, and always … that perfect patio.
Photos by Ted Scheffler
Culinary quote of the week: “Life’s too short. Start with dessert!” – Barbra Streisand
