Moab

First-Time Guide to Moab: Hiking, Dogs, and Off-Road Culture

The first night I camped in Moab, a guttural sound jolted me awake. I was sure it was some desert beast. Turned out, it was just a cow. That’s how my relationship with this place began: confused, a little spooked, and not entirely impressed. But the desert has a strange way of working on you.

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Dusk in Moab, Utah.

Not long ago, I read a social media post that said, “If I die in Walmart, please take my body to Nordstrom.” It made me laugh and think that if I ever kick the bucket in Salt Lake, don’t bother with Nordstrom just haul me to Moab instead. But I’ll be honest: it wasn’t love at first sight.

I grew up surrounded by a very different kind of natural beauty — the European sort — green forests that look like they belong on postcards, rivers you can see through, and lakes that glisten like polished emeralds. 

Then there was Moab; dusty, red rocks, brush, and cows. Yes, cows, roaming around everywhere.

We camped my first night in Moab, and that’s when I had a close encounter. I heard a loud, guttural noise in the middle of the night. Thinking it was some desert monster, I found out in the morning that it was just a cow.

It took me a while to warm up to the beauty of the red desert and those monumental rock formations. Fast-forwarding to today, I can’t help but daydream about those rocks being real towers and fortresses from millennia ago, now abandoned, standing stoic as layers of sculpted sediment.

But, where was I? Right, biking and jeeping in Moab. I don’t know much about either, to be honest. But I do know something about dogs and hiking. So when others are packing up their bikes or lining up their jeeps, I’m packing my dogs and plenty of dog food, getting ready for the 3.5-hour drive from Salt Lake to Moab.

I love the BLM trails around Moab. Most of them allow dogs, like the Grandstaff Trail, which even has a stream running through it. Nothing beats  a wet playground for the pups and a few minutes of meditation by the water.

One of my favorite trails is the Bar-M Loop. It’s technically a biking trail, and you’ll see plenty of bikers, but there’s enough space for everyone: bikers, hikers, and dogs. It’s not steep, and there are patches of slickrock that make you feel like you’ve landed on another planet.

Then there’s the jeeping. Poison Spider Trail is the ultimate off-roading experience, and it’s one of those things that’s equally baffling and impressive to me. You’ll see jeeps crawling, one after another, slow and steady, like an army of metal ants navigating the boulder-strewn landscape. Very often, one person is out of the jeep, guiding the driver — carefully calculating every inch — advising him how to get over some gigantic boulder. Every time I see it, I can’t help but wonder, “Why?!” Even at my snail’s pace, I’m faster on foot than any of those jeeps. But then again, everyone has their passion. It may not be my cup of tea, but I respect theirs.

Some folks complain that off-roading isn’t nature-friendly, but I’ve met plenty of jeep enthusiasts who are out here to escape the daily grind, following the rules about where to go and how to behave. They’re not out to destroy the land, they’re just trying to get a little closer to the wild, the only way they know how.

Interestingly, some of these trails were never meant for recreation. They were born from Moab’s mining past. The White Rim Trail, for example. Originally carved out to reach uranium deposits back in the 1950s, it’s now one of the most famous off-road and biking routes in the region. You’ve got 103 miles of rugged terrain where mountain bikers and jeeps trace the old mining tracks, sharing stories of grit and glory along the way.

Another old mining route turned iconic trail is the Porcupine Rim Trail, where cyclists navigate rocky descents and cliffs with views that drop your jaw, not just your bike. And Kokopelli’s Trail? That 142-mile beast from Colorado to Moab is part rugged path, part legend. It’s where bikers and jeepers alike challenge themselves against the harsh landscape.

Slickrock, on the other hand, wasn’t exactly a mining road, but it was used to test motorcycles back in the day. Now, it’s a proving ground for mountain bikers who want to see how much traction they can squeeze out of their tires on those petrified dunes. It’s the kind of trail where you either fall in love with biking or swear off it forever (so I heard).

And, if you really want to see Moab’s off-roading culture at its peak, plan to be here during the annual Easter Jeep Safari. Hosted by the Red Rock 4-Wheelers, this nine-day event in April turns the town into a hub of four-wheel-drive madness. This year, it’s set for April 12th to April 20th. 

You’ll see jeeps of every kind crawling through trails like Golden Spike and Hell’s Revenge, guided by folks who seem to have nerves of steel and a passion for dust and diesel. It’s one of those times when Moab feels like the heart of the off-roading universe. Even as a spectator, you can’t help but feel caught up in the energy of it all.

After a day filled with the exhilarating roar of engines and rugged trails, there’s nothing quite like unwinding at a tranquil spot by the river, letting the gentle sounds of flowing water soothe the senses. 

​I have a deep affinity for water, perhaps stemming from my upbringing in a quaint town spread over nine rivers. One of the most charming riverside retreats I’ve discovered is Red Cliffs Lodge. Perched on the banks of the Colorado River, this rustic getaway offers serene views and a tranquil atmosphere. It also welcomes dogs — a crucial factor for me when traveling with my four-legged companions.

Moab has grown on me like an acquired taste. Now, I can’t imagine not making that trip a few times a year, dogs in the back, snacks in the front, and that familiar pull toward the land where the desert meets the sky. U

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