During this past holiday season my wife suggested that we treat ourselves to a nice lunch in downtown SLC and mentioned doing so at The Capital Grille. Frankly, I wasn’t particularly in favor of the idea. Why support an expensive, nationwide restaurant chain with more than 70 locations in the U.S., plus more overseas, I wondered. 

But then I took a look at The Capital Grille lunch menu and, to be honest, I was enticed. So I relented and I’m glad I did. Because it turns out that lunch at The Capital Grille is a capital idea! In fact, lunch at The Capital Grille can actually be a bargain, of sorts. Who knew?

The first thing I noticed upon entering the foyer of The Capital Grille was a wall of private wine lockers. These are provided so that regular guests of the restaurant can stash wines from their private collection to enjoy at the restaurant. However, I was told by a server that the lockers are all spoken for and the waitlist to get a wine locker is months if not years long. Thankfully, The Capital Grille has a beefy wine list and a full bar – no need to BYOB. 

Bread Basket

I remember a time when many upscale (and even family-style) restaurants offered bread for the table, gratis. That’s a rare thing these days and I was impressed by the complementary Bread Basket offered during our Capital Grille lunch. There were a pair of seeded rolls along with crisp pieces of lahvosh, both baked in-house and served with scrumptious whipped butter. We nibbled on the tasty breads while perusing the lunch and wine menus.

New England Clam Chowder

There are a few ways to go about lunching at The Capital Grille. You can order appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees a la carte, or you can opt for one of three “Plates” – a choice of entree and a starter for $28. Now that is a bargain. The 28-buck Lunch Plates at The Capital Grill begin with a choice of Field Greens Salad, New England Clam Chowder, or Caesar Salad, followed by an entree choice of Seared Salmon with Mediterranean Couscous, Asparagus and Heirloom Tomatoes; Roasted Chicken Breast with Mushrooms and Parmesan Risotto; or Sliced Tenderloin Steak Frites with Chimichurri and Rosemary Fries. I opted for the Steak Frites with a starter of New England Clam Chowder, which was outstanding. When I say that lunch at The Capital Grille is a relative bargain, what I’m talking about is this: The aforementioned Roasted Chicken Breast with the same sides is $28 during lunch and $41 during dinner. It pays to eat early.

Steak Frites with Chimichurri & Rosemary Fries

One day I’ll get around to trying an a la carte steak during lunch such as a Bone-In Dry-Aged NY Strip ($35), Filet Mignon ($37), or Boneless Prime Ribeye ($41). I loved my Steak Frites, which was a generous portion of oh-so tender and juicy sliced tenderloin on a bed of delicious chimichurri sauce and excellent fries seasoned with rosemary alongside.  

Service at The Capital Grille is second to none and we loved our informative, friendly and helpful server named Victoria, who shares a passion for photography as does my wife, Faith. Victoria was also very knowledgeable about the wines from the electronic wine list and helped us to settle on a terrific bottle of Y3 Chardonnay ($56) from Jax Vineyards in Napa Valley. 

If you think – as I did initially – that The Capital Grille restaurants are cookie cutter in style and decor, you’d be wrong. For example, the decor at SLC’s outpost includes portraits of famous Utahans such as the actress Loretta Young, who was born in Salt Lake City, and author/Franklin Covey founder Stephen R. Covey, among others. 

Ribeye Steak Sandwich

Lunchtime sandwiches at The Capital Grille include a Ribeye Steak Sandwich with Caramelized Onions and Havarti on a grilled French loaf ($34); Mini Tenderloin Sandwiches with Mushrooms and Herb Cheese (2 for $23); served with Parmesan Truffle Fries; and The Grille’s Signature Cheeseburger with Grilled Onions and Parmesan Truffle Fries ($23). 

Maine Lobster Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette

Salads during lunch include a Cobb Salad with Sliced Tenderloin and Mustard Dressing ($26); Seared Salmon with Avocado, Mango, and Tomato Salad with Champagne Vinaigrette ($25); or the salad my wife enjoyed: Maine Lobster Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette over a mound of fresh arugula and avocado with cherry tomatoes ($34). It’s not an inexpensive salad, but my wife’s salad was brimming with delicate, scrumptious lobster – a much more generous serving than we’d expected. 

As with the breads served at The Capital Grille, pastries and desserts are baked in-house by Pastry Chef Mary Morgan and her culinary team. The manager on duty when we visited was generous – since we were celebrating the holiday season – and sent us out a trio of delectable desserts: The Capital Grille Cheesecake with fresh berries, mint, and a dusting of powdered sugar; delightful Coconut Cream Pie with house made caramel sauce; and Classic Crème Brûlée with fresh berries. 

Steak houses are never inexpensive places to dine and The Capital Grille is no exception. But for a nighttime splurge or a midday reasonably priced lunch, The Capital Grille should be on your list of dining destinations. The service, ambiance and cuisine we enjoyed was nothing short of excellent. 

Photos by Ted Scheffler; Steak Sandwich courtesy of The Capital Grille

Culinary quote of the week: “What is patriotism but the love of the good things we ate in our childhood.” – Lin Yutang