Immigrant Success Stories

Immigrants Among Us—A Thai Couple is Living the American Dream

Third South in downtown Salt Lake City between 300 West and 400 West is a treasure trove for food enthusiasts. The block across from Pioneer Park is home to the original Caputo’s Market & Deli, as well as Bruges Waffles & Frites, Carlucci’s Bakery, Aquarius Fish Market, A Priori Specialty Foods, and Cucina Toscana restaurant….

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Yupin and Wichai Charoen in their kitchen at Laan Na Thai. Photo by Mike Jones.

Third South in downtown Salt Lake City between 300 West and 400 West is a treasure trove for food enthusiasts. The block across from Pioneer Park is home to the original Caputo’s Market & Deli, as well as Bruges Waffles & Frites, Carlucci’s Bakery, Aquarius Fish Market, A Priori Specialty Foods, and Cucina Toscana restaurant. Sandwiched in amongst all that great grub is a small space with a walk-up counter: Laan Na Thai.

The kitchen, like the eatery itself, is tiny. But don’t be fooled: the flavors dished out here are big and bold. Many of the menu items originated in northeast Thailand, where the owners hail from. For example, nam tok (“waterfall” in the Thai language) is a salad of tender stir-fried flank steak with lettuce and sticky rice, Thai chilis, shallots, scallions, fish sauce (nam pla), fresh lime and cilantro. It’s a sensational salad.

Behind these fabulous flavors is a lovely immigrant couple, Yupin and Wichai Charoen, who came to the United States in 2009. For six years, Yupin was the chef for Ekamai Thai, which was situated in the same location where Laan Na Thai is now. She has been around food all her life, beginning with helping her mother run a food stand in Thailand when she was young.

In 2016, Yupin and Wichai opened Laan Na Thai, becoming the first SPICE Kitchen entrepreneurs to open a brick-and-mortar restaurant. A “food business incubator” focused on creating opportunities for refugees and disadvantaged individuals, SPICE (Supporting the Pursuit of Innovative Culinary Entrepreneurs) Kitchen is a program of the International Rescue Committee in partnership with Salt Lake County, whose mission it is to assist immigrants, refugees and other disadvantaged community members in starting full or part-time food businesses.

SPICE provides training to would-be entrepreneurs, provides kitchen space for them to “incubate” their businesses, and, in a nutshell, offers a support system for “graduates” to be able to successfully sustain their own business. Like Yupin and Wichai Charoen. SPICE literally helped make the Thai couple’s dream of owning a restaurant become a reality.

Sometimes luck plays a role in our successes, and Yupin Charoen was lucky that a woman named Grace Henley happened to walk into Ekamai Thai a few years ago, while she was cooking there. The Ekamai owners had decided that they would sell their restaurant and return to Thailand, which devastated Yupin. An immigrant without much in the way of a formal education, she feared she’d never be able to find another job here.

Henley, a regular at Ekamai, saw that Yupin was despondent. Normally cheerful, Yupin feared for her future. To make a long story short, Henley stepped in, got Yupin and Wichai involved with SPICE, and the rest, as they say, is happy history. Laan Na Thai is now a busy and thriving eatery — a favorite drop-in spot for many Thai-loving Salt Lakers.

I’m one of them, and I find their “drunken” noodles irresistible. Wide, pappardelle-style noodles are tossed with a choice of chicken, beef, pork, tofu or shrimp with egg, roasted chili oil, red and green bell peppers, onion, broccoli, carrot, tomato and basil. For under 10 bucks, this dish is other-worldly. I also love Laan Na’s pad ginger, a dish infused with fresh ginger, green and yellow onions, and mushrooms.

For authentic Thai cuisine at street food prices, you should pay a visit to Laan Na Thai and say hello to Yupin and Wichai Charoen. They are a living embodiment of the American dream. §

Laan Na Thai is located at 336 W 300 S, Salt Lake City, 801 363-2717

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  • Why Most People Stay Stuck in Business and What It Takes to Move Forward

    Every so often, you meet an immigrant who came here with almost nothing and managed to build something exceptional.

    Prakash Shah is the kind of man who has spent enough time around risk that he no longer treats it like an interruption.

    Today, he works in business brokerage and advisory, helping owners sell companies, helping buyers decide whether they should step in, and, when the fit is right, helping connect those buyers with private equity. He works in a world of valuations, leverage, due diligence, and hard questions that most people would rather postpone. He also operates in Utah real estate and has built a career around seeing value before it is obvious to everyone else. That is who he is now. What makes him interesting is how early that instinct started to form, and how little his life resembles the way most Americans are raised to think about comfort, career, and security.

    He grew up in Nepal in a boarding school system that would feel severe to many Americans. He was an only child, yet he saw his parents only twice a year for twelve straight years, until high school graduation. He lived inside routine. He shared space with boys from different social classes and different family circumstances. The school was structured enough that money did not buy you any special standing once you were inside. Everyone followed the same rules. Everyone was subject to the same discipline. In his case, it was an army school. Everything was measured. Everything was scheduled. In that kind of environment, you do not build your life around preference. You build it around adaptation.

    That contrast matters.

    A lot of American children are raised to search for what fits them. What are you passionate about? What do you enjoy? What feels right? Those are not bad questions, but they can create a habit of waiting for life to align itself before action begins. Prakash learned something else much earlier. He learned that life often does not align itself first. You enter the room as it is, you deal with the people in it, and you figure out how to function without making your comfort the center of every decision. He said that one of the biggest lessons from those years was tolerance, the ability to live with people from all walks of life and genuinely learn to get along with them. That is not a soft value. In business, it turns into resilience. In negotiation, it turns into patience. In career terms, it turns into range.

    When he came to the United States over 25 years ago, he did not arrive with the kind of runway that allows for a prolonged identity search. He came with two suitcases and enough money for one semester. He went to Hunter College in New York City, then to NYIT near Central Park, studying media and then media and technology management. He also studied psychology. Those details matter because they show something about his mind. He was interested in people before he built a career around deals. Even then, what attracted him was not technical prestige. It was understanding motives, behavior, and how people reveal themselves.

    But New York is merciless toward vague ambition. It demands payment in rent, transit, food, and time.

    Prakash worked constantly. He took multiple jobs. He paid tuition, paid rent, and skipped most of what Americans imagine as college life. There were no romantic years of drifting from café to concert to self-discovery. He talked about not having the luxury of dates, travel, or finding himself. He was working. Even laundry was not a small detail. In New York, he pointed out, you do not just throw clothes in a machine at home. You haul them to the laundromat, count quarters, and measure what is necessary. He also described distraction in a way that most native-born Americans probably do not think about. For immigrants, distraction is not always pleasure. Sometimes distraction is the constant pressure of competing needs. Tuition or rent. Food or savings. A better coat or another month of making do. He was not romanticizing the struggle. He was describing the arithmetic of it.

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    While in college, he had the option of safer analytical work. Instead, he took a sales job with Time Warner Cable that sent him into the South Bronx from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. to knock on doors. He is not a physically imposing man. He knew exactly what kind of neighborhoods he was walking into. He described apartment buildings where people kept pit bulls, where tension was normal, where one mistake in tone or timing could end a conversation immediately. For most people, that kind of job would have been something to survive and forget. For him, it became a school in human behavior. “It’s not about talking… it’s about listening,” he said.

    One story from that period says almost everything about how he operates. He knocked on a door one night around 8:45 and found himself facing a huge man with a gun on the table, pit bulls nearby, and a half-eaten pizza in front of him. It had all the ingredients of a very bad scene.

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